Traditional hand forged rose-head cut nails

Available in bees-waxed & patine

Price per kilo

Available in 40mm, 50mm, 65mm & 75mm

Picture shown is bees-waxed

ROSEHEAD

SIZE mm                     NUMBER PER KILO (approx)

50 x 3                                              225

65 x 3                                              175

75 x 3.2                                           135

100 x 4                                             70

Please state size when ordering online

Priced per kilo

It is important that traditional nails are used to retain the authentic look and feel of the building as when it was first constructed. Our traditional cut nail products provide the fixing solution.

General

Normally, cut nails are used in conjuction with wood. You will notice that cut nails all have a flat rectangler point. This allows the nail to punch its way through the timber fibres rather than causing the wood to split which often happens with diamond pointed round wire nails for example.

It is important also to place the nail across the grain of the wood to avoid splitting. For larger nails we recommend that holes are pre-drilled in the timber slightly undersized from the width of the nail.

DRIVING (Hammering)

When driving a nail through wood it is better to begin using short tapping strokes until the nail has a secure feel as it travels through the wood before applying heavier blows to drive it home. This should reduce the chances of bending the nail.

If the nail is bent backwards and forwards several times because the nail has gone squint, the metal will be weakened and the nail may split leaving a broken point in the wood which may be difficult to extract.

This issue is more relevant when 'hard' as a opposed to 'soft' wood is being used. Where a problem occurs pre-drilling as described above may be the answer.

CLINCHING

Clinching a nail means that the shank is bent over by 90 deg after the nail has passed through the timber to anchor the nail in place. This is possible when the nail is cut hot.

FINISHING

Wrought iron is subject to a much slower rate of oxidisation (rusting) than mild steel thought to be due to 'slag' or impurities in the iron which melts when heated to form a protective layer. Evidence of this slower rate of corrosion can be found in iron fittings still in place that dates back over 300 years. On no account should iron nails be galvanised as this will seriously affect the iron. To futher protect iron nails, it is suggested that painting or oiling on a regular basis will suffice.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Manufacture of cut nails involves a guillotine action on mild steel which means that cut nails have sharp edges on all four sides of the shank so care should be taken when handling the nails.

The point of a cut nail is blunt. Very occasionally, a malformed nail with a sharp point might get through. If such a nail is found, it should be disposed of immediately in such away that will avoid injury.

HOLDFAST

Used for applications requiring a L shape fixing.

SIZE mm                     NUMBER PER KILO (approx)

40 x 6                                            83

50 x 6                                            73

Please state size when ordering online

Priced per kilo

It is important that traditional nails are used to retain the authentic look and feel of the building as when it was first constructed. Our traditional cut nail products provide the fixing solution.

General

Normally, cut nails are used in conjuction with wood. You will notice that cut nails all have a flat rectangler point. This allows the nail to punch its way through the timber fibres rather than causing the wood to split which often happens with diamond pointed round wire nails for example.

It is important also to place the nail across the grain of the wood to avoid splitting. For larger nails we recommend that holes are pre-drilled in the timber slightly undersized from the width of the nail.

DRIVING (Hammering)

When driving a nail through wood it is better to begin using short tapping strokes until the nail has a secure feel as it travels through the wood before applying heavier blows to drive it home. This should reduce the chances of bending the nail.

If the nail is bent backwards and forwards several times because the nail has gone squint, the metal will be weakened and the nail may split leaving a broken point in the wood which may be difficult to extract.

This issue is more relevant when 'hard' as a opposed to 'soft' wood is being used. Where a problem occurs pre-drilling as described above may be the answer.

CLINCHING

Clinching a nail means that the shank is bent over by 90 deg after the nail has passed through the timber to anchor the nail in place. This is possible when the nail is cut hot.

FINISHING

Wrought iron is subject to a much slower rate of oxidisation (rusting) than mild steel thought to be due to 'slag' or impurities in the iron which melts when heated to form a protective layer. Evidence of this slower rate of corrosion can be found in iron fittings still in place that dates back over 300 years. On no account should iron nails be galvanised as this will seriously affect the iron. To futher protect iron nails, it is suggested that painting or oiling on a regular basis will suffice.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Manufacture of cut nails involves a guillotine action on mild steel which means that cut nails have sharp edges on all four sides of the shank so care should be taken when handling the nails.

The point of a cut nail is blunt. Very occasionally, a malformed nail with a sharp point might get through. If such a nail is found, it should be disposed of immediately in such away that will avoid injury.

]]> sales@heritage-supplies.com (PHILIP BRAITHWAITE) http://www.heritage-supplies.com/traditional-cut-steel-nails/holdfast Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:46:23 +0000 17.50 GBP 941 1 2000 ghf001 http://www.heritage-supplies.com/images/large/PICTUREholdfast_LRG.jpg http://www.heritage-supplies.com/traditional-cut-steel-nails/cut-floor-brad http://www.heritage-supplies.com/traditional-cut-steel-nails/cut-floor-brad/reviews

CUT FLOOR BRAD

Used on tongued and grooved floors.

SIZE mm                     NUMBER PER KILO (approx)

50 x 2.5                                             264

60 x 3                                                198

65 x 3.2                                             154

75 x 3.2                                             100

100 x 4                                               53

Please state size when ordering online

Priced per kilo

It is important that traditional nails are used to retain the authentic look and feel of the building as when it was first constructed. Our traditional cut nail products provide the fixing solution.

General

Normally, cut nails are used in conjuction with wood. You will notice that cut nails all have a flat rectangler point. This allows the nail to punch its way through the timber fibres rather than causing the wood to split which often happens with diamond pointed round wire nails for example.

It is important also to place the nail across the grain of the wood to avoid splitting. For larger nails we recommend that holes are pre-drilled in the timber slightly undersized from the width of the nail.

DRIVING (Hammering)

When driving a nail through wood it is better to begin using short tapping strokes until the nail has a secure feel as it travels through the wood before applying heavier blows to drive it home. This should reduce the chances of bending the nail.

If the nail is bent backwards and forwards several times because the nail has gone squint, the metal will be weakened and the nail may split leaving a broken point in the wood which may be difficult to extract.

This issue is more relevant when 'hard' as a opposed to 'soft' wood is being used. Where a problem occurs pre-drilling as described above may be the answer.

CLINCHING

Clinching a nail means that the shank is bent over by 90 deg after the nail has passed through the timber to anchor the nail in place. This is possible when the nail is cut hot.

FINISHING

Wrought iron is subject to a much slower rate of oxidisation (rusting) than mild steel thought to be due to 'slag' or impurities in the iron which melts when heated to form a protective layer. Evidence of this slower rate of corrosion can be found in iron fittings still in place that dates back over 300 years. On no account should iron nails be galvanised as this will seriously affect the iron. To futher protect iron nails, it is suggested that painting or oiling on a regular basis will suffice.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Manufacture of cut nails involves a guillotine action on mild steel which means that cut nails have sharp edges on all four sides of the shank so care should be taken when handling the nails.

The point of a cut nail is blunt. Very occasionally, a malformed nail with a sharp point might get through. If such a nail is found, it should be disposed of immediately in such away that will avoid injury.

PALM HOLDFAST

Used to hold wooden batterns onto old stone walls, the flat end is pre-drilled ready for use.

SIZE mm                     NUMBER PER KILO (approx)

150 x 6                                            11

Please state size when ordering online

Priced per kilo

It is important that traditional nails are used to retain the authentic look and feel of the building as when it was first constructed. Our traditional cut nail products provide the fixing solution.

General

Normally, cut nails are used in conjuction with wood. You will notice that cut nails all have a flat rectangler point. This allows the nail to punch its way through the timber fibres rather than causing the wood to split which often happens with diamond pointed round wire nails for example.

It is important also to place the nail across the grain of the wood to avoid splitting. For larger nails we recommend that holes are pre-drilled in the timber slightly undersized from the width of the nail.

DRIVING (Hammering)

When driving a nail through wood it is better to begin using short tapping strokes until the nail has a secure feel as it travels through the wood before applying heavier blows to drive it home. This should reduce the chances of bending the nail.

If the nail is bent backwards and forwards several times because the nail has gone squint, the metal will be weakened and the nail may split leaving a broken point in the wood which may be difficult to extract.

This issue is more relevant when 'hard' as a opposed to 'soft' wood is being used. Where a problem occurs pre-drilling as described above may be the answer.

CLINCHING

Clinching a nail means that the shank is bent over by 90 deg after the nail has passed through the timber to anchor the nail in place. This is possible when the nail is cut hot.

FINISHING

Wrought iron is subject to a much slower rate of oxidisation (rusting) than mild steel thought to be due to 'slag' or impurities in the iron which melts when heated to form a protective layer. Evidence of this slower rate of corrosion can be found in iron fittings still in place that dates back over 300 years. On no account should iron nails be galvanised as this will seriously affect the iron. To futher protect iron nails, it is suggested that painting or oiling on a regular basis will suffice.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Manufacture of cut nails involves a guillotine action on mild steel which means that cut nails have sharp edges on all four sides of the shank so care should be taken when handling the nails.

The point of a cut nail is blunt. Very occasionally, a malformed nail with a sharp point might get through. If such a nail is found, it should be disposed of immediately in such away that will avoid injury.